I had a lovely walk today through the countryside in Galicia between Sarria and Portomarin. Walking along has created lots of inner peace. But today was lovely.... slightly overcast in the morning, it cleared up to be sunny. A delightful 70 degrees. And the sights were breathtaking in this Celtic land. Just wanted to share a few images from today.
We walked the 23km from Sarria to Portomarin today. This was the beginning of the home stretch. Sarria is about 100km from Santiago and the beginning point for many pilgrims who want to do the minimum for a Compostela. The guidebook had warned there would be more people on the Camino from here to Santiago. There are... a lot more.
It has been a fascinating meditation on these new members on the way. They are fresh. They are clean. They walk fast and with purpose. Several large groups were encountered. It reminded me of myself a month ago. And made the change from the walk obvious and clear. For those on the Way these many weeks, we are worn. The clothes and especially the shoes show the miles. We take our time walking and know when we need to break for food or water.... rest or prayer. Often alone.... companions leave space... for the Way is done within most of all.
The characteristic of the new pilgrims that was most startling was they are LOUD. They talk to each other a lot. They talk incessantly. There is music blaring. ... and all this in multiple languages simultaneously. The silence and the solitude of the Meseta is gone. But the Camino continues.
I am reminded of the high and grace that comes when on a good retreat. Then life returns and sustaining the grace is difficult to impossible. Today was a glimpse of returning to life.... and yet still on retreat. So the choice and the practice of that choice remain. What pace do I want for my life? What fills my day? Do I make time for the Lord within and listen to His voice? Do I walk gently? Quietly? Do I have a blessing ready for my companion along the Way?
We walked through beautiful rolling countryside in Galicia today. Though overcast this morning, it was another beautiful day. Galicia is the northwest province of Spain....and Santiago is its capital. This land was settled by Celts centuries ago....and I can see why those from Ireland and Scotland would feel at home here.
As we were walking along in the country, what do we come across in the middle of a field?!?
Plugged in.
With its own recycle bin beside it.
With video surveillance to prevent crime.
You can't make this stuff up....
There are countless blessings in the daily task of finding a bed to sleep in at the local albergue. And with those blessings come many people and stories... too many to all be told.... but a little glimpse is important. Several folks have asked about accommodations on the Camino. Each afternoon we have to ask at the local albergue if there is room in the inn for us. For the most part, they don't take reservations.... first come, first served. The first blessing is receiving a bed for the night.
Each albergue has its own floor plan, but the variations are from two variables..... how many beds in the room.... beds or bunk beds. it is co-ed living with multiple generations in the room each night. From four to seven languages can be heard as people unload their backpacks.
As the days unfold, we see familiar faces at times... but every evening there are new neighbors in the room. As we all unpack...take showers...do laundry by hand in the sink...catch a nap.... charge our cell phones.... a simple dance unfolds, back and forth.... making room for the other; each taking their turn.
There is a courtesy and respect among pilgrims that is amazing.... all of us strangers in each other's personal space... and no fights break out. But the night brings great humor and humbling truth. We are in bunkhouses...all sleeping together....when the songs of the night are sung. The beans from dinner make for great trumpets. After all the walking during the day, many saw wood through the night. Many stumble in the dark to find the needed relief in the bathroom down the hall. I certainly contribute my fair share of musical notes. What a grace to love and forgive the many others singing in the chorus each night.
And then we arise, generally before dawn, to walk again. Each goes their own pace, each with their own schedule.... some we see every day, others never again. But there was a room in the inn for us.... to encounter the One humble enough to walk with us.... to love us completely.
We walked a pleasant 24km up to Villafranca del Bierzo today. Passing through several villages, we were mostly pounding the pavement... up and down hills on the way to O'Cebreiro...the big mountain we will start climbing tomorrow and reach its summit on Saturday.
As we have been walking for a couple of days in the mountains again, the conversation has turned to hills.... going up them and going down them. Both actions have their challenges....but going down seems to me the more difficult physically and spiritually.
Going up a hill pulls at the calves and strains the lungs for air. But there is the built in reward of the vista when the summit is reached. There is the satisfaction of achieving the new height. The Scriptures often speak of being closer to God....of receiving revelation...whether on Sinai or Tabor or Calvary.
But going down the hill pounds on the knees and the feet. There is no view to anticipate and even the rocks of the path become more tricky to navigate when going down. It is rough...especially when the descent is steep. Yet Jesus made descent his signature gift in the spiritual life....descending from heaven to earth... and from here to hell... for our salvation. His signature approach in ministry was to identify with the least and the lowly.... going down to their level and raising them up. But the challenge is in going down.... to walk that path so that we are on the same level as each and every one of our brothers and sisters. How blessed is the example of our Holy Father, Pope Francis, in living out the Lord's commands to serve the least. What little I know about him indicates he is willing and able to go down the hill.... and rejoice in reaching the bottom... for there is an encounter with the Lord waiting to happen.
As we walk along, do we meet the Lord at the summits in life when the view is beautiful? As we walk along, do we encounter the Lord in the valleys having gone down the hill in order to meet him in our sisters and brothers there?
Being the civilized people that they are, the Spanish don't consider dinner complete without dessert. This is simply a beautiful thing. I have had flan several times. I have tried a couple of different chocolate cakes....some rice pudding.... custard....a cheesecake with caramel sauce. Once or twice the restaurant was more health conscious and we had yogurt and fruit.
What a wonderful way to finish the day....with a little something sweet!!!
Been a couple of days since I have been able to post, and the walk continues to go well. We headed out of the meseta yesterday and into the mountains. We stopped in the little mountain village of Foncebadon which had no WiFi connection. It made for a beautiful quiet evening.
This morning we came to La Cruz de Ferro ( the Iron Cross) which marks the highest peak on the Camino. The tradition is for each pilgrim to bring a rock from home and place it at the base of the cross. There is a prayer that goes with this ritual.
Lord, may this stone, a symbol of our efforts on pilgrimage that I lay at the foot of the Cross of the Savior, one day be the balance in favor of our good deeds when the deeds of our lives are judged. Let it be so. Amen.
I brought two granite rocks along. One for me. One for the parish. May the good Lord have mercy on us.
The glorious second course of dinner centers on meat.... and comes with french fries whether you need or want them. :)
Generally there are three or four meats to choose from.... pork, chicken, beef and fish. The meat is either pan-seared or baked....occasionally garnished with a salad or peppers. And always fries. :)
For four entertaining evenings I ordered 'lomo a la plancha' -- pan seared pork loin. The first day I got chicken. The second day I got the pork. The third day it was steak and the fourth day ham! It's been a running joke for us... what kind of lomo does this restaurant serve???
The food has all been delicious.... and washes down well with a glass or two of red wine. We have had several varieties of Spanish wine, but the winner had been the Rioja wines....a robust red made with the tempranillo grape. It is all kinds of yummy! We are in Astorga and headed into the Bierzo wine region...so we'll see what those are like. :)
On this lovely feast of Corpus Christi, having arrived in the town of Orbigo, it seems a good day to continue the series on food. The main meal of the day in Spain is dinner. Pilgrims eat before the locals....our menu is served around 7pm; the natives eat around 9pm or 10pm.
The pilgrim dinner comes in three courses. First course has the most diverse options. There generally is a choice of salad or soup or pasta. Occasionally paella will join the mix.
While I had a salad once, the grace seems to be filling up the empty cavern of my stomach with substantial food. My favorite so far has been alubias rojas...a bean soup with sausage. But a plate of pasta with marinara sauce hits the spot as well. In Itero de la Vega they had made a lovely lentil soup. A basket of bread is on the table to share....and wipe my bowl clean. :)
The first course tends to be inhaled...and satiate the hunger just enough that the rest of the dinner can be eaten at a respectable pace. The long walks have only helped my appetite. Thankfully this is a land of good cooks, generous portions....and time to enjoy the many blessings.
Passed through the beautiful city of Leon today. It was founded by the Romans who stationed a legion of soldiers here...which is the basis for the city's name. The long history is visible in the churches that have been built through the centuries.
San Isidoro Church was built in the 11th century on the old Roman foundations of the city. St. Isidore, the patron saint of farming, is buried here. So I spent some time praying for our parish garden at his tomb.
The cathedral is a 13th century Gothic church. Unfortunately it was only open for the paying tourists this morning so I skipped out of that.
San Marco was built as a Renaissance church but now serves as a high end hotel. For those who saw the movie 'The Way'...this was the fancy hotel the pilgrims stayed in. With the local feast of Saints John and Peter currently in full swing, there was no room at the inn.
So I went out a couple of miles into the suburbs to Virgen del Camino. This modern basilica was built in 1961. The front shows the 12 Apostles and the Blessed Virgin Mary. St. Matthew is the third from the left. Can you identify St. James?
The schedule of my Camino only allows for one day in a city, but I could enjoy praying here for a while. This is also the first time I saw the spire of that American institution so recognizable on the skyline. I didn't go by...but I smiled and made a comment before heading to the next church. :)
Having very fair Irish skin, I have never been one to tan. I tend to burn, then peel, and be back to white. As I walk along the Camino, where the weather has been wonderful and sunny, I am slowly getting a tan. Keep in mind I wear spf 50 sunscreen everyday and a hat... but slowly even I am getting a tan.
But it's not a pretty tan. It's a Camino tan. So my forearms are darker for the time in the sun as I swing my trekking poles along. Since I am walking west each morning, the back of my legs are brown but not so much the front. It makes me smile as I think of the many who work on having and maintaining a perfect tan. I don't have one of those.
As I walk along, my skin is exposed to the sun. But I delight in exposing my heart to the Son. It is quite a remarkable experience of mercy and love. The rays of grace slowly grant peace, forgiveness, healing, dignity and life. Over time I trust the Lord will shape me more and more in his image and likeness.
I am far from perfect, but still thankful for my Camino tan.
The timing of lunch varies depending on the location and number of towns on the itinerary. We made it to Mansilla de las Mulas today after a 19km stroll from El Burgo Ranero. Lunch today as it is most days is a large sandwich. My favorite is chorizo... but ham and bacon and cheese have also been in the mix. Yesterday the restaurant had a breakfast special going at lunch... and I can always enjoy bacon and eggs. :)
In this lovely Catholic country, not a town has gone by without a church dedicated to our Lady. Many are dedicated to her under familiar titles like the Assumption and the Annunciation, but I was also tickled in Castrojeriz at the church -- Our Lady of the Apples!
There are many statues of Mary in people's yards and on the sides of buildings. Our Lady is forefront in the devotional imagination of the people here. My favorite image so far has been Our Lady of the Camino in Carrion. The kind pastor there spoke to all the pilgrims after blessing each of us at the end of the pilgrims' mass. He pointed out the image in the side chapel of the church ( it was also in the stain glass of the rose window). He tenderly reminded us that Mary walks with us on the Way. She has heard the prayers of millions of pilgrims, and we can trust her with all that is in our hearts. He then led us in singing the Salve Regina.
For me, devotion to Mary is sustained by the Rosary. While many people pray the Rosary in church ( like our faithful crew on Thursday mornings at St. Matthew's) and many pray the rosary at home or while driving, I enjoy praying the rosary most while walking. In the rhythm of the strides and the rhythm of the prayers, a beautiful grace occurs. I tend to walk faster when praying with our Lady, but it also goes easier and lighter. I treasure our time together.
What title of Mary means the most to you? What is your favorite image of her? Have you talked with her lately and told her what is on your heart?
Yet another beautiful day today, cool in the morning... sunny and warm throughout the day. A nice long 27km walk to Terradillos de los Templarios. Just miles and miles of quiet path; walking through grain fields for as far as the eye can see.
I have developed a couple of new phrases to help uplift the spirit during the day. The first is 'poco a poco'....little by little. Early in the morning, especially with it being cold, it takes a while for all the muscles and joints to warm up. So we start slowly.... poco a poco.... knowing there is plenty of time and distance in the journey ahead.
Today's walk was designed to be grueling. Partly by distance, but mainly through flat monotony in the quiet solitude. While the Lord will speak to the heart on some days, today He wasn't offering much. But he did send along a diligent swarm of bugs. For a good 6 or 7 mile stretch, gnats buzzed around with delightful abandon. I got to eat a couple. Three dived to their deaths into my eyes. It was one of those days.
The other phrase I have taken to using is ' una hora mas'.... one more hour. As the afternoon wears on and the miles are starting to tire the feet, there arises the hope of soon reaching the day's destination. But the distance can trick the eye...and the tired body doesn't go as fast as it did in the morning. So how long will it take to get there??? Una hora mas....
There are so many blessings on this pilgrimage. Included in them are the slow, steady blessings of faithfulness and perseverance. Nothing exciting about such grace, but blessed none the less. To walk a little further along the way.... por una hora mas.... poco a poco....
As the Camino traverses the Spanish countryside, the vision from town to town is the same... the Catholic Church is here. Dominating the landscape is an architecture of faith. As we approach each town or village, the first and tallest point is the church spire, visible from miles away.
And these churches are old and beautiful. Just today I prayed in a 12th century Knights Templar church and a 15th century parish church....and I go to Mass this evening in another church! I treasure the details and the love poured into these buildings. We don't seem to make them like this anymore.
But the other reality is most of these ancient churches no longer serve living communities of the faithful. Most are locked up and stand in disrepair. Some have been turned into museums. Only a few open their doors for the living church and the sacraments that mark our journey of faith.
As I walk along, the many beautiful churches speak of our faith. How many people made gifts to build such cathedrals for God? How many learned of the love of God for them in such sacred halls? How much service has been inspired? And how true to the Gospel do we have to be so that the generation that follows can also encounter a living Church?
Several people have asked about the food here on the Camino. It has been great! One of the dynamics of walking all day is I tend to dig right into the meal when it is in front of me. I haven't been taking time after grace for pictures!
I have often been told that the most important meal of the day is breakfast. While it is not the most exciting meal here in Spain, I enjoy it enough to have it twice every day. :) Most of the albergues host a simple breakfast for us before we go. It is toast with jam, juice and cafe con leche ( coffee with milk). As the walk unfolds, we stop for a second breakfast in a neighboring town. This is usually a little more interesting.... maybe a pastry, or maybe a tortilla-- an omelet with potatoes and sometimes meat. Once we found a place serving fried egg and bacon sandwiches.... oh so good!
Thankfully there are little stands selling fresh fruit because fruit and vegetables only make cameo appearances on the menu.
More on food to follow. I am trying to remember to take a few pictures of the lovely local cuisine. :)
I am having trouble publishing the blog so here are the pictures that go with today's edition in parts....
We have been walking through the meseta for two days now and made it as far as Itero de la Vega.
The Camino is broken into 3 parts that have been tied to the 3 parts of the Paschal mystery. The mountains that slowly descend to Burgos are aligned with Christ's suffering. The meseta to Leon is aligned with Christ's death and time in the tomb. The mountains climbing out of Leon to Santiago are seen as a resurrection.
The meseta is a good and open land. The vistas extend to the horizon and the sky is a royal blue with few clouds to diminish it. A strong and steady wind blows across the land....caressing the grain as it races onward. It is a quiet place to trek....little is heard except the wind and the crunch of boots on the gravel path. There are fewer pilgrims on this section... the Way has spread us out as we make our way to Santiago, each at his own pace.
The quiet lends itself to contemplative prayer, drawing near to the One who whispers in a still, quiet voice. We tucked into a little hermitage at San Bol last night. It is a wonderful place to rest and pray.
The wind here blows relentlessly....strong and cool. It made quick work of drying the daily laundry! :) but more...has given rise to consider the presence and strength of the Spirit of God. What can the Lord do for us if we allow? How much more blessed is life with the Lord filling it with his spirit? With his healing mercy?
Yesterday we made it into and out of Burgos. This delightful city has a glorious Gothic cathedral....but the noise and the traffic of the city were jarring after the tranquility of the countryside.
Taking the tour of the cathedral was grand. Each chapel is an extravaganza of art and faith on display. I could have spent all day meditating on all the depictions from scripture and the lives of the saints.
The cathedral also has the tomb of the famous general, El Cid. I never saw the classic movie but reading on his life here... he was quite the hero! The cathedral has a mural depicting him by his famous horse, Babieca. They were originally buried together in a nearby monastery, but he was moved to the cathedral later and re-interred by his wife. :) What a grand culture!
With Burgos, the first stage of the Camino is done. Now the Way heads out into the meseta....a flat and hot land exposing us pilgrims to the sun.
