Today's was a relatively short walk of only 14km from Sahagun to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos. As the Camino leaves Sahagun there is a choice....follow the paved path to Bercianos and Burgo Ranero or take the dirt path to Calzadilla. This way is a bit longer overall and most pilgrims take the other way. This way follows the old Roman road. It was a gentle walk today with gorgeous scenery that never seems to end.
So grateful to be here. So grateful for the blessings the Lord shares.
The city of Sahagun is an important Camino city and religious center. Here the Camino from Madrid joins the Camino from France. Many powers have ruled here, and many have fought for the privilege including the Church. The Romans had a camp here. Charlemagne fought here and lost. The Moors held the city for years, and after the Christians regained it they built a number of impressive churches.
As I walked along the Camino, the first church on the way is the church of San Juan de Sahagun, the local patron saint. His feast day is Sunday so the town is gearing up for a big party....I simply joined the parish for their Novena mass.
Down the street from San Juan is the church of St. Lawrence. It's brick tower is a landmark around town. This beautiful church is typical of the Mudejar style...Christian architecture influenced by Muslim art...which originated here in Sahagun. They used bricks instead of stone to build the church. There was no longer a need for flying buttresses like in Gothic cathedrals. The arches are rounded and the designs in the brickwork are from Islamic designs.
Similar work is seen at San Tirso church across town. The round clock tower that rises above (and is the nesting ground for storks) is about all that is left of the monastery of San Benito. This monastery was once the largest monastery in Spain....having over 100 daughter houses. The Benedictines from Cluny even coined their own money. But the church made its enemies as well and the monastery was destroyed first by war and then by fire leaving only a few ruins behind.
This fair city has given me much to consider. How can we live out our faith so that we inspire others to draw closer to God? How can we take the beauty and wisdom of others, even our enemies, and incorporate it into something new and beautiful? How can we live humbly so that our witness gives glory to God and not just power for ourselves?
Today's walk went from Ledigos to Sahagun. Another spectacular day! As I walk along, I recall the trail and the progression of towns from my last Camino. Starting today and for the next two days there are two possible paths. Last time I chose the shortest path which generally runs noisily by the highway. This time I am taking the alternate route, and as Frost notes....it has made all the difference. Only a few other pilgrims were on it. It was lovely and quiet being quite a distance from the road. And it was gorgeous!
So often it is easy to fall into the routine of life, the route we always take. What delights, what graces, might we receive by taking an alternate route?
The guidebook outlines a long 27 km haul to Terradilloes de los Templarios. And it about killed me the last time. So I didn't listen to the guidebook. I listened to my body. I know my pace is about 20 km a day. So I stopped in Ledigos after 23.5 km. That was enough for today.
The Camino on this section is long, flat and straight. It follows the old Roman road. They had good engineers so that we can walk on it 2000 years later. The countryside opens up to the horizon and there is little in the way of shade as the warm sun beats down. There is plenty of time and opportunity to listen to the quiet within.
Two days of walking has me listening as well to the aches as they begin. As I arrived today, my knees and feet were sore. It brings back memories. :) Most of the pilgrims at this stage have limps, blisters, calluses or other battle scars. But I will catch up in no time.
Today also included the joyful listening to pilgrim stories. As paths cross time and again, little conversations start and build. Monica who is a nurse from Majorca and Mark from Las Vegas both shared a little of what brought them on Camino. And it's always a hoot when people learn that I am a priest.
A gorgeous day and a blessed walk of 20 km to Carrion de los Condes. On this first day of walking I kept meeting old friends from my Camino two years ago. There are the yellow arrows pointing the way. The flowers in bloom. The simple path through the countryside. In town there are red plastic chairs that announce the presence of a cafe.
The walk today included a long stretch by a river. As I was shaded by the trees, I was serenaded by the birds overhead and frogs in the water. The wind sang through the leaves of the poplars. It was just lovely.
And of course I renewed my friendship with my favorite foods....tostadas for breakfast, an egg bocadillo for snack, an empanada for lunch washed down by café con leche.
And as the miles of open fields go by, the quiet returns as well. That dearest friend of all, the Silence within, that leaves me full as she empties me out. So blessed!
Tonight the local parish has Mass at 8pm that includes a choir of Augustinian nuns. At 5:30pm, the Sisters of Charity who run the albergue where I am staying have evening prayer in their chapel. Tis blessed to spend time with the One who calls me here and leads me on.
It is good to be with old friends.
After a plane, a train and a bus, I arrived in Fromista. I will start walking in the morning to Santiago en Compostela.
The trip was delightfully uneventful. Delta did a lovely job with the overnight flight to Madrid. Then Renfe ran its route to Palencia. I crossed the street to the bus station, had lunch and took the afternoon bus to Fromista. Since I haven't slept much since leaving Atlanta, I am mostly exhausted. Off to take a nap. Then I am hoping to celebrate Mass this evening in St. Martin church, the beautiful Romanesque church in town.
It is good to be here....good to be on pilgrimage.
It is finally time to go for a walk. The plane is here at the gate and soon we will be boarding for Spain.
Dios te bendiga!
